McDonald

 

Mc donald good machine. you say that ethanol was added without it, how much power surrendered bank? yours was generous car home, mine, because of the delay in ignition before rescheduling, did not render the original 150hp ... why change coils too.

A greeting!

 

The first time the car was chipped it was doing 184hp with normal petrol (RON95). The second time with new chip it was doing 229hp. This time RON98 petrol was used with adding extra ethanol. I add 1 liter ethanol for every 10 liters of petrol, so it's 7 liters for a full tank.

Bio-ethanol has an octane value of 109, so adding the ethanol will increase the octane level of the petrol to approximately 100. This will add 10-15hp extra and makes the engine run smoother and better. The higher the octane level of the petrol the better it is for the engine. Some people say the exhaust gases are cooler too.

With an higher octane value the fuel consumption is a little less too. I used for a short period expensive RON102 petrol and the fuel efficiency dropped from 8.3 to 7.6 liters for each 100 km. You can see my fuel efficiency here: https://www.spritmonitor.de/en/detail/428234.html

The new coils are more reliable than the original ones used for the 1.8T engine and work better with lower rpm's. These coils can also give more energy (higher voltage) to the spark plugs which makes it possible to increase the gap of the spark plugs. The gap is normally 0.7mm and I increased it to 0.8mm. Some people in the USA with Audi A4 B6 use gaps up to 1.0mm. The bigger the gap the hotter the spark which results in a more efficient burning.

More technical information about these coils can be found here: https://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45050

I use the NGK BKR7EIX Iridium spark plugs now.

Los leds de las DRL no das fallo?

Donde se pueden conseguir esas bombillas?

Gracias!

I bought the LEDs for the DRL on eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-P21W-29W-9-HIGH-POWER-LED-1156-382-BA15s-REVERSE-BULBS-AUDI-/140909440319?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:NL:3160

These LEDs are not canbus types, so you'll need a parallel resistor. I use 2 x 50W parallel resistors (39 Ohm // 22 Ohm = 14 Ohm) for each DRL.

Donde se puede comprar los casquillos esos de aluminio donde entran los inyectores. ..??

The injector cups were ordered here: https://www.verdictmotorsports.com/Volkswagen_VW_Audi_Injector_Cup_Billet_1_8T_20v_p/vms107.htm

Select engine code: AMB.

Best is to order the complete kit (hex, brush, loctite) and new o-rings for the injectors.

You might also want to replace the gasket between engine & intake manifold, and the gasket between throttle body & the intake manifold.

Removing the intake manifold is quit a big job, because you'll also have to drain some coolant.

Disconnecting the hose from the pipe through the manifold to thermostat was the hardest job:

My car had the wrong plastic cups installed, revision E (grey) instead of H (white):

The plastic cups can crack: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/543201-What-went-wrong-with-your-B6-today?p=10258271&viewfull=1#post10258271

It's also good practice to clean and recalibrate (VCDS) the throttle body: https://hubpages.com/hub/How-To-clean-your-Throttle-Body-VWAudi-DIY#

A few updates from this year.

Installed a Hama USB charger:

New CREE Leds (800 lm) for the DRLs:

New coil packs. These are better, see here for info: https://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45050

Replaced original intake hose by silicone hose from Forge. Also the hoses from the turbo to the throttle body have been replaced.

Replaced snub mount. Left is the original and the black one on the right is the new poly-urethane snub mount.

Replaced the plastic injector cups with aluminium ones (left):

Audi mud flaps and 10mm spacers:

New LED side markers, very bright:

New Goodridge brake hoses:

Had the car remapped again. First I had the first remap (red) removed, didn't like it.

Went to another company for a new remap and the car was doing 229 hp / 334 Nm (blue) on the dyno!

The fuel I was using was RON98 (Shell) and added 10% bio-ethanol for increasing the octane level of the fuel.

My Exeo is at appr. 2:10 minutes:

Replaced LEDs footrest and doors with brighter ones:

Further:

- Debadged the rear

- New clutch (Sachs)

- New timing belt

@McDonalds, that's right

 

 

 

You've put a LED 2200MCD

you need a LED 40 MCD

 

these are good:

https://www.ebay.es/itm/100Pcs-New-1206-SMD-Super-Red-LED-40mcd-/180670093242?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a10c6d7ba

 

.....

 

not change the resistors, there will be no change in brightness

you need to install an LED 40MCD

 

Thank you very much for this. I've ordered new green 40mcd LEDs.

At least it's working now.

Pues yo tengo el mismo problema que @nodigasocho. Mi coche es un MY'09, y aparentemente las resistencias estan puestas todas. Adjunto una foto. El LED ya esta puesto, pero no se donde poner las resistencias.

 

Cuadro.jpg

 

A ver si el compañero @fadno nos puede echar una manita, y conseguimos solucionarlo.

 

En todo caso, para probar, he cambiado el código con el VAGCom, y nada, no funciona. ¿Alguna idea?

 

Gracias.

Sorry for not replying in Spanish.

I think the two resistors (2 x 270 Ohm / 0.25W) should be placed more to the right for units with a monochrome display.

Unfortunately I don't have the resistors to test this at the moment.

Update

Placed 2 resistors of 220 Ohm / 0.25W on the pcb and the indication is working now.

The LED is a little too bright in my opinion.

When I have the 270 Ohm resistors I will install these instead.

For your information I bought the LEDs here on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/50pcs-PLCC-2-3528-1210-POWER-TOP-SMD-SMT-Pure-Green-Super-Bright-Light-LED-/191088812515?pt=US_Car_Lighting&hash=item2c7dc7e1e3

The parts I used were: Rear sway bar: 8E0511409AL (1 pc) Bushings: 8E0511327D (2 pcs) Bushing brackets: 8E0511439 (2 pcs) Bolts for brackets: N10127707 (4 pcs) Bolts for sway bar: N10528103 (2 pcs) ... and some Loctite 243. Total cost appr. 178 euro including the Loctite. The rear sway bar upgrade is one of the best modifications. The rear sway bar will reduce the under steer and add over steer. It really improves the handling of the car when taking corners or overtaking other cars (changing lanes).

Lamp unit:

- 8E0 947 111 A 9NQ (grey/silver)

- 8E0 947 111 A 8C1 (torrone/brown)

LED unit:

- 8E0 919 063 A

Pictures -> https://www.seat-online.nl/showthread.php?3974-SEAT-Exeo-3R-Binnenverlichting-met-ambient-leds&p=92056&viewfull=1#post92056

Some good and bad news.

First the good news.

Finally I have the Milltek sport exhaust system installed. It sounds good, but not too loud.

The bad news... earlier I mentioned that I would have a look into upgrading the window switches, see this topic: https://mofler.com/foro/index.php/topic,18207.msg293928.html#msg293928

I have the switches in the passengers doors installed.

The problem is that the switch does not return to its neutral position when operating the switch. It looks like the cap is touching the armrest when operating the switch and get stucked.

So I will remove these switches and install the original switches again.

Only the switch for adjusting the mirrors will stay (4F0 959 565 A 5PR).

Installed the Audi RS4 rear sway bar (22mm) today:

See these links for info:

- https://www.audiction.com/audi-tuning/audi-rs4-rear-sway-bar-install/

- https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/225821-RS4-Rear-Sway-Bar-Install